Kyoto day 11

Monday 25th November

I left bright and early for the flea market at Kitano Tenmangu shrine. When I got there at about 8.30, the stallholders were still setting up, but by the time I'd had a look around the shrine itself things were getting busier. There were some of the same stalls as at Toji, but a lot of different ones too. I'd say it was slightly more antiquey and traditional at Kitano Tenmangu - I saw lots of kokeshi dolls this time! I was very tempted by some doll sewing magazines, but I was starting to worry about the weight of my suitcase!

I also had a look at Hirano shrine, and around the Kamishichiken area.

In the afternoon I took the subway to the Imperial Park. It had been raining when I set out, but by the time I got there it was a complete downpour, and just got heavier still as I looked around the park. I sheltered in the tiny Itsukushima shrine island with a little old man and his two cats. The one sitting in his lap was called Tora (Tiger). I also had a look at another small shrine, Munakata, where a couple were having their wedding photos taken on the one day of torrential rain in two weeks of glorious weather! I did enjoy seeing some weather other than bright sunshine, but by the time I got back to my hotel I was wet through and had only explored a fraction of the park - maybe I should have gone to the Manga Museum instead!

Kyoto day 10

Sunday 24th November

The words of the day were "sugoi!" (amazing) and "kirei!" (beautiful). The autumn colours were at their most spectacular.

I took a bus to the northern end of the Philosopher's Path, and first I headed to Ginkakuji Temple. There was actually a lot more to it than just the cone of gravel and the pavilion which I knew about. There was also a walk up the hill with great views over the city, and a lovely garden. The place looked exactly like on the postcards that were on sale, with the autumn leaves at their best.

I continued to stroll along the canal, with its cherry trees in their autumn colours, leaves tumbling down. I had a look at Honen-in Temple, which was small and peaceful. It had gravel mounds with designs on the top of them, and a lovely water basin with a camellia blossom positioned where the water was flowing out.

Before long I reached the tiny Otoyo Shrine with its rat statues, and a cute little torii gate that was only just big enough for me to walk under.

I then made my way to Eikando Temple. I could see why it is so famous for its autumn colours. It was a beautifully sunny Sunday, and the leaves were at their peak, so the place was very busy. Here and Jojakkoji Temple in Arashiyama were probably the best places for autumn leaves that I visited.

Next I went ot the Nanzenji Temple complex, which was also very crowded. First I looked at the aqueduct, then I went on to one of the sub-temples, Saisho-in, which was a lot more peaceful. I also looked round the garden at Nanzen-in.

I began to feel I'd had enough of busy temples, so I headed for a bus stop, passing the Lake Biwa Aqueduct Museum and caught a bus near the Museum of Art.

Later I walked to Gion, where I was hanging about looking for geishas when someone told me they don't work on a Sunday! So instead I had a look at one of the shops that sell kanzashi and combs, and bought a lovely kanzashi (hair ornament).

Kyoto day 9

Saturday 23rd November

I met up with my Japanese friends Miki, Maki and Kaori at my hotel. We had all become friends in 2007 when we were at Edinburgh College of Art summer school. Unfortunately our other friend Sayoko couldn't join us, as she is at art college in Dundee.

First we walked to an exhibition that Kaori knew about. The items were all made of washi paper and wood. It was held in a space with traditional tatami mat floors, so we had to take our shoes off. Many of the exhibits were down at floor level, so it was great to be able to kneel or sit down on the floor for a closer look. It almost felt like being in someone's home rather than an art gallery.

We then took the subway and then the train to Arashiyama. The train was crowded, and when we reached Arashiyama the streets were heaving with people. I knew that it was going to be one of the busiest days of the year there, but I had no idea quite how busy that would be! I've never before in my life seen so many people! The streets were packed in all directions.

My friends pointed out Sayoko's house to me, and then we headed straight to the restaurant that she had recommended. There was a 3 hour waiting list, so we would have to go back there at 4pm! To keep us going we bought some croquettes and other snacks, and ate them sitting by the river.

Then we headed to Tenryuji Temple. It was busy, but the autumn colours were spectacular! They had truly reached their peak. There was a beautiful garden with a pond, which made use of the borrowed scenery of the hills behind it, which were covered with trees of every colour.

We left by the gate which led into the bamboo forest, which again was packed with people. I will have to go back another time if I want moody, misty, lonely photos of a deserted bamboo path!

We then went to Jojakkoji Temple, which was quieter than Tenryuji but even more beautiful, I think. There were leaves of every possible shade of red, orange, yellow and green, and there were great views.

We realised it was time to go to the restaurant for our meal, and we had to hurry as it was further than we'd thought! The restaurant, Yoshimura, was right on the river, with large windows and a fantastic view. The meal was delicious! I had cold soba noodles with a dipping sauce (and I have become addicted to making something similar at home!), hot soba noodles with various mushrooms and other vegetables in a broth, tempura and fried rice, buckwheat tea, and the noodle cooking liquid which is a lovely drink too.

Miki and I said goodbye to Maki and Kaori at the bridge, and we headed to the railway station where we had to queue even to get on the platform to catch the Randen - an old-fashioned tram. We were in a lovely carriage with wood paneled walls. It was very busy, and by the time we got off we were both very sleepy!

Kyoto day 8

Friday 22nd November

I caught the bus to Ninnaji Temple, the longest bus journey I'd made so far. I went round the palace. The gardens were very beautiful and the place was so peaceful. The autumn colours were getting stronger by the day, and even seemed to be intensifying over the course of one day.

I then walked to Ryoanji Temple, which was as busy as I expected it to be, so visiting the rock garden was not a very peaceful experience. I enjoyed photographing the famous water basin, as I'd developed a bit of an obsession with photographing these. There was lots more to see, including a large pond to walk round.

Toji-in was a total contrast in that it was so very quiet. It had a spot where I sat and observed a gravel garden and there was not a soul to be seen - very different from at Ryoanji! The place was quite difficult to find, but I'm glad I made the effort.

In the evening my friend Miki met me at the hotel and we took a taxi to Kodaiji Temple. We arrived there to find a giant queue, but we joined it and it moved along quite quickly. The autumn leaves were lit up, and there were coloured lights on the gravel garden. There was a pond with perfect reflections in it, and a bamboo forest.

We went on to Entoku-in Temple, which was much more peaceful, then we went along Ishibei-koji and back towards Shijo Street. As we passed Hanami-koji we decided to have a quick look, and immediately spotted a geiko, and a few minutes later saw another.

We went to Issen Yoshoku and had okonomiyaki which is a pancake filled with all sorts of delicious things. It was a really fun place to eat, with mannequins dressed in kimono at each table.

Kyoto day 7

Thursday 21st November

I headed to the flea market at Toji temple, which was quite spectacular, as was the weather. There were second-hand items, new, hand-made, food, plants and much more. Among all this there was still the solemnity and peace of Buddhist rites being observed. It was a crafter's paradise, with lots of stalls selling fabric, buttons and beads. There were so many stalls and it was so complex that I'm not sure yet if I saw all the stalls! It was well worth the visit, and was a big highlight of my trip (mind you, so has everything been!). It was the only place I needed to use my compass - not to find it, but to find my way out again!

I had some spare time in the afternoon, so I hopped on the bus to Nijo Castle. I'm glad I did, as there is is much I didn't see the last time I was there!

In the evening I went out for a geisha walk with guide Duncan Flett. We went into the Ukiyoe Museum - a tiny museum run by a woodblock printer, then through the grounds of Kenninji Temple, then got to Migagawa-cho where we waited to see if we could see any geishas - we ended up seeing lots! He also took me through a Pachinko parlour, which was quite an experience, very loud and smoky.

Kyoto day 6

Wednesday 20th November

First I went to Higashi Honganji temple. It was undergoing some major restoration work, which was pretty impressive itself - what I'd taken to be modern buildings within the temple complex were actually temporary structures to cover the temple buildings, but very sturdily built. It made some areas quite industrial-feeling, but there was still enough of the temple to see. It was a relief to walk around inside the temple with no shoes on, and the areas of wood where the sun had been shining were lovely and warm to walk on. I then went to the Shoseien garden which was very beautiful and quite peaceful.

At Nishi Honganji temple the autumn display of crysanthemums was gorgeous. All different styles and shapes, including bonsai ones on rocks. This temple really had the feel of somewhere people come to pray, rather than a tourist destination.

Kyoto day 5

Tuesday 19th November

I got the bus to Gion, then the train to Fushimi Inari. It was a bit confusing buying the right ticket, finding the right platform and the right train, but I managed it. I was happy once I was on the train and knew it was going in the right direction!

Fushimi Inari shrine was quite busy at the bottom, and it was difficult to get photos of the torii gate tunnels without any people in them, but the further I climbed the more peaceful it became. It was a good walk, with lots of steps, but it didn't take me much more than an hour to reach the top. My only complaint would be the lack of western style toilets there!

Halfway up the mountain was an area with some seats and good views. By the time I got back down to there it had warmed up a bit - I'd started the day with a light jacket and gloves on.

Later on I had another walk around Gion, and the shops.

Kyoto day 3

Monday 18th November

I got a bus to Gion, went into Yasaka Shrine again, then headed to Kiyomizu temple. I went along Ishibei-koji, a narrow street with traditional buildings, which was lovely and very quiet, then as I went up Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka things got progressively busier. There were lots of souvenir shops along the way, including one with Studio Ghibli stuff, so I bought a few things along the way!

When I arrived at Kiyomizu, I first went into Tainai-Meguri. You take your shoes off and walk down some stairs, then along a route that twists and turns through complete and utter darkness with only a beaded handrail to guide you. Then you reach a large stone that you spin round.

Kiyomizu itself had spectacular views over the city, and is a stunning building. The autumn colours were looking good, and there were lots of people walking about in kimono.

I walked down Chawanzaka, then went shopping along Shijo street and in the arcades, and I also bought a cheap second-hand kimono in a shop my friend had shown me. Later I went walking in Gion and had another look at the shops - I managed to find a Japanese sewing magazine I'd been looking for, and a Blythe sewing book.

Kyoto day 2

Sunday 17th November

After a good night's sleep and an amazing Japanese buffet breakfast, I headed out and had my first experience of catching a Japanese bus. It was extremely crowded when I first got on, but as people got off everyone shuffled forward. I watched what the others did, and had my correct money ready to drop in the machine when I got off.

Heian Shrine was stunning from the first moment I saw it. I could see straight away there were lots of children there, dressed in their kimonos, celebrating the Shichi-Go-San festival. People were really friendly, and one lady, who only spoke about two words of English, managed to communicate to me that the garden was something I shouldn't miss, and she was right. The further round the garden I got, the more beautiful it became. I got an old Japanese couple to take my photo at the stepping stones (which were in one of my favourite films, Lost in Translation). I was walking about in a t-shirt, and it was funny to see that the Japanese people all had their coats on!

I continued to the Miyako Messe Exhibition Hall, where the Museum of Traditional Crafts is. It was a really interesting museum, and it had a great water feature outside, which made it feel like you were sitting behind a wall of water when you were inside. The shop was great, and I bought lots of my souvenirs and presents there. Then it was time for a maiko doing a dance performance inside the museum. It was the closest I'd been to a maiko dancing, and her hands and eyes were so expressive.

I went back to the hotel and had a short nap, then met one of my Japanese friends, Kaori. The place we'd planned to eat was not open, so we wandered for a while until we found another place. The meal came as lots of individual courses, and it was great to be able to try lots of different Japanese foods (and drinks!).